Nō reira, kua hoki mai ngā kākahu Crocs, ki te kore, e kore rawa e tawhito. He pai tēnei mō te puni? He whakamarie? He mahara ki ngā wā o mua? Kāore mātou i te tino mōhio. Engari e aroha ana mātou i Scienceline ki ā mātou Crocs, ahakoa ko te takirua māwhero kanapa i mau i a Lyric Aquino i te rarangi o mua ki tētahi kōnohete a Harry Styles, ko te takirua kikorangi rānei i mau i a Delaney Dryfuss ki te wharekai huatau i Martha's Vineyard. Ko ētahi o ā mātou tino pai kei te mahi tahi me ngā Crocs pēnei i a Bad Bunny, ngā kiriata Cars me 7-Eleven.
E rua tekau tau te roa o ngā kākahu rongonui e whakamahia ana, engari i taua wā kāore mātou i whakaaro ki te hanga o aua kākahu. Kia puta ake tēnei pātai ki roto i ō mātou hinengaro, kāore e taea te whakakore. Nō reira, me titiro matatau tātou ki te matū o ngā Crocs, me te whakaaro me pēhea te whakarerekē i tōna hanganga hei whakaiti i te tapuwae taiao o te kamupene.
He uaua ki te kimi i tētahi whakautu tika i runga i te ipurangi. I ētahi tuhinga ka kiia rātou he rapa, i ētahi atu - he pahuka, he kapia rānei. He tokomaha e kī ana ehara i te kirihou.
I te taumata taketake rawa, he mea hanga ngā Crocs mai i te rauemi Croslite kua patenttia. Mēnā ka hohonu ake te keri, ka kitea e koe ko te nuinga o te Croslite he polyethylene vinyl acetate (PEVA). Ko tēnei rauemi, e kiia ana ko te EVA i ētahi wā, nō roto i tētahi akomanga o ngā matū e kiia nei ko ngā polymers — he ngota nui i hangaia mai i ngā ngota iti ake, e honoa ana. Nō ngā wahie pūmua tōna hanganga matū.
"He kirihou rawa ngā ararika. Kāore e kore," te kī a Michael Hickner, he kaipūtaiao rauemi i te Whare Wānanga o Pennsylvania State, he tohunga ki ngā pūmua.
I whakamārama ia he whānui te wāhanga kirihou, engari e pā ana ki tētahi momo pūhui i hangaia e te tangata. He maha ā tātou whakaaro ki a ia hei rauemi maeneene, ngāwari hoki e whakamahia ana hei hanga ipu tango kai me ngā pounamu wai whakakorekore. Engari he kirihou anō hoki te styrofoam. Pērā anō hoki mō te nairona me te polyester i roto i ō kākahu.
Heoi, kāore i te hē te whakaahua i ngā Crocs he pahuka, he kapia, he rapa rānei – koia katoa ēnei i runga ake nei. He whānui, he koretake hoki ēnei wāhanga, e pā ana ki ngā āhuatanga rerekē o te takenga mai o ngā matū me ngā āhuatanga ā-tinana o ngā Crocs.
Ehara i te mea ko Crocs anake te waitohu hū e whakawhirinaki ana ki te PEVA mō ōna kapu pai. Tae noa ki te taenga mai o te PEVA i te mutunga o ngā tau 70 me te tīmatanga o ngā tau 80, e ai ki a Hickner, he pakari, he uaua hoki ngā kapu hū. "Kāore rawa he ārai," tana kī. "He tino uaua." Engari e kī ana ia he ngāwari te polymer māmā hou hei rongonui i roto i te umanga hū. Tekau tau i muri mai, ko te auahatanga a Crocs ko te hanga i ngā hū katoa mai i tēnei rauemi.
"Ki taku whakaaro ko te mahi toi te mea tino motuhake a Crocs," te kī a Hickner. Engari, kāore a Crocs i te whakaatu nui i te āhua o te hanga o ngā Crocs, engari e kī ana ngā tuhinga patent me ngā ataata a te kamupene kei te whakamahi rātou i tētahi tikanga noa e kiia nei ko te werohanga whakarewa, he tukanga e pā ana ki ngā mea hiriwa kirihou me ngā pereki Lego. Pērā i te pū kāpia wera, ka mimiti te mīhini werohanga whakarewa i te kirihou mārō, ka whakarewa, ka puta mā roto i tētahi ngongo i tērā pito. Ka uru te kirihou rewa ki te pokepoke, ka whakamatao, ka whiwhi i tētahi āhua hou.
Ko te kāpia wera tonu he mea hanga mai i te PVA. Engari he rerekē ki te kāpia wera, ka whakakiia te pūhui Croslite ki te hau hei hanga i te hanganga pahuka. Ko te hua he hu e manawa ana, e kore e werawera, e ātete ana hoki i te wai e tautoko ana, e whakaruru ana hoki i te kapu o te waewae.
Ka paku rerekē te tukanga kia pai ake ai te taiao o ngā hu kirihou. I roto i tā rātou pūrongo tauwhiro hou, i kī a Crocs e tukuna ana e te takirua o ā rātou hu tawhito te 2.56 kg o te CO2 ki te āhuarangi. I pānuitia e te kamupene i te tau kua hipa kei te whakaaro rātou ki te whakaiti i taua nama ki te haurua i te tau 2030, mā te whakamahi i ngā kirihou i hangaia mai i ngā rauemi whakahou kaua ki ngā wahie pūmua.
Ko te rauemi hou e ahu mai ana i te koiora, e kiia nei ko Ecolibrium, i whakawhanakehia tuatahitia e Dow Chemical, ā, ka hangaia mai i "ngā puna huawhenua pēnei i te hinu taratara mata (CTO), ehara i te puna parapara," te kī a te kaikorero a Dow i roto i tētahi īmēra. Ko te hinu taratara, he hua taha o te tukanga whakaputa penupenu rakau e whakamahia ana hei hanga pepa, i ahu mai tōna ingoa i te kupu Huitene mō te paina. Kei te arotakehia hoki e te kamupene ētahi atu kōwhiringa e ahu mai ana i te tipu, e ai ki tā rātou kaikorero.
"Me whakahoki mai tetahi kōwhiringa koiora e whakaarohia ana e Dow hei hua para, hei hua taha rānei o te tukanga hangahanga," ko tā rātou i tuhituhi.
Kāore a Crocs i whakaae kia whakamārama mai mēnā kua tīmata rātou ki te whakamahi i a Ecolibrium i roto i ō rātou hu. I pātai atu hoki mātou ki a Crocs e hia ōrau o ā rātou kirihou ka ahu mai i ngā pūtake whakahou i te mutunga o te tekau tau, i te tīmatanga i whakaaro rātou kei te whakamahere rātou i tētahi whakawhiti katoa. I whakautu te kaikorero, ā, i whakamārama mai: "Hei wāhanga o tā mātou whāinga kia tutuki te kore tukunga hau i te tau 2030, ko tā mātou whāinga he whakaiti i ngā tukunga hau mai i ētahi hua mā te 50% i te tau 2030."
Mena kāore a Crocs e whakaaro ana ki te huri katoa ki ngā kirihou koiora i tēnei wā, tera pea nā te iti o ngā utu me te wātea. I tēnei wā, he nui ake te utu o ngā kirihou koiora, ā, he iti ake te whai huatanga o te hanga i ngā kirihou tikanga. He mea hou, ā, he whakataetae ki ngā tukanga tuku iho "kua tino tawhito", e ai ki a Jan-Georg Rosenboom, he miihini matū i MIT. Engari ki te tipu tonu te umanga kirihou koiora, e matapaetia ana e Rosenboom ka heke ngā utu, ka piki ake te wātea nā te pikinga o te tauine whakaputa, ngā hangarau hou, ngā ture rānei.
Kei te whakamahere hoki a Crocs ki te whakamahi i ētahi atu hangarau hei whakaiti i ngā tukunga waro, pērā i te huri ki te pūngao hou, engari e ai ki tā rātou pūrongo 2021, kāore tēnei whakawhiti e puta tae noa ki te haurua tuarua o tēnei rautau. Kia tae rā anō ki taua wā, ko te nuinga o te whakaiti ka puta mai i te whakakorenga o ētahi kirihou e ahu mai ana i te wahie pūmua ki ngā momo whakakapinga hou.
Heoi, kotahi te raruraru nui e kore e taea e tēnei kirihou koiora te whakaoti: ko te wāhi e haere ai ngā hu i muri i te tawhito. E mōhiotia ana he roa te ora o ngā ararika. I tētahi taha, he rerekē rawa tēnei i ngā raruraru ahua tere e pāngia ana e te umanga. Engari i tētahi atu taha, ka mutu ngā hu ki ngā whenua ururua, ā, ko te pirau koiora ehara i te mea he pirau koiora.
"Kei te mōhio koe, kāore e taea te whakangaro i ngā Korowha, ā, ka puta ake ngā take mō te oranga tonutanga," te kī a Hickner. E kī ana ia he maha atu pea ngā korowha i te Pacific Garbage Patch.
I whakamārama a Hickner, ahakoa ka taea te hangarua i te nuinga o ngā PEVA mā te matū, kāore e taea te mahi tahi me ētahi atu hangarua o te whare. Me hanga pea e Crocs tā rātou ake awa hangarua, me te hangarua i ngā hū tawhito hei hanga i ngā mea hou.
"Mēnā i hiahia a Crocs ki te hanga rerekētanga, me whai kaupapa hangarua rātou," te kī a Kimberly Guthrie, e whakaako ana i te hokohoko me te oranga tonutanga o ngā kakahu i Te Whare Wānanga o Virginia Commonwealth.
Kua mahi tahi a Crocs me te kaihokohoko taonga tuku iho ipurangi a ThredUP ki te kimi i tētahi kāinga hou mō ngā hu o te wā kua hipa. Kei te whakatairanga a Crocs i tēnei mahi tahi hei wāhanga o tana whakapau kaha ki te whakaiti i te nui o ngā hu e mutu ana ki ngā whenua ururua. Ina tukuna e koe ngā kākahu me ngā hu kua whakamahia ki tētahi toa tuku taonga ipurangi, ka taea e koe te rēhita mō ngā Crocs Shopping Points.
Kāore a ThredUP i whakautu mai ki tētahi tono kia mōhio ai koe e hia ngā takirua i tae atu ki ngā toa hokomaha, i hokona atu rānei ki ngā kākahu hou. Heoi, ka hoatu noa e ētahi tāngata ā rātou hu tawhito. Mā te rapu i a ThredUP ka kitea e koe he whānuitanga o ngā hu Crocs i roto i ngā momo tae me ngā rahi.
E kī ana hoki a Crocs kua ora ake i te 250,000 ngā takirua hū i te whenua ururua i roto i ngā tau e rima kua pahure ake nei mā roto i tā rātou kaupapa koha. Heoi, koinei te take e koha ai te kamupene i ngā takirua hū kāore anō kia hokona, kaua e maka atu, ā, e whakarato ana te kaupapa i ngā hū ki te hunga e hiahia ana. Heoi, ahakoa te whakapau kaha a Crocs ki te oranga tonutanga, kei te akiaki tonu te kamupene i ōna mema o te Karapu Crocs kia hoki mai ki te tiki i ngā mea hou o ngā ārai kirihou pakari.
Nā, he aha te hua o tēnei? He uaua ki te kī. Kua pai ake te ngākau nā te ngaronga o tā mātou mahi tahi me Bad Bunny, kua hokona katoatia ngā tīkiti, e tiaho ana i roto i te pōuri, engari kāore i roa.
He kairīpoata pūtaiao a Allison Parshall, ā, he nui tōna ngākau nui ki te kōrero pakiwaitara maha-rongoā. He kaituhi anō hoki ia mō Quanta Magazine, Scientific American me Inverse.
Ko Delaney Dryfuss te Etita Matua o Scienceline i tēnei wā, ā, he kairangahau hoki ia mō Inside Climate News.
Aroha ana ahau ki ō korokotairo, engari he nui rawa te utu mō ētahi. Tukuna mai tō takirua hou, rahi 5. He maha ngā tau e mau ana ahau i taku takirua whakamutunga. Tiakina te taiao, ā, noho ora ai.
Ko tāku anake he tumanako kei te pai tonu rātou pēnei i nāianei nā te mea ko te ngawari anake te mea ka taea e au te mau ki te mahi nā te mate rumatiki me ētahi atu raruraru e pā ana ki ōku waewae. He maha ngā whakamātautau kua mahia e au mō te mamae o te waewae me ētahi atu. Ko ngā takahanga waewae orthotic… kāore e mahi engari ko au te take kāore e taea te mau hu, kāore rānei au i kitea he mea e tika ana mōku, ā, i ia wā ka hikoi au ka pēhia te pōro o tōku waewae, ā, ka pāngia ahau e te hiko, he mea pērā rānei. Me te mea kei roto tetahi mea kāore e tika kia noho ki reira… ko tāku anake he ngawari pērā i ētahi atu kia taea ai e au te mahi tonu.
I muri i taku pānui i tēnei, i whakaaro ahau ka pakaruhia e Crocs tā rātou hua. Koinei ngā hū pai rawa atu kei te mākete i tēnei wā e pā ana ki te whakamarie me te tautoko. He aha ai te tinihanga i te angitu me te whakangaro i tētahi mea pai? Kei te āwangawanga ahau mō ngā Crocs i tēnei wā, ki taku mōhio kāore e taea e au te hoko i a rātou i muri mai.
I te takutai moana i Oregon ahau e kukume ana i ngā ararikatara rimu e rua. He mārama, i roto i te wai mō te wā roa, nā te mea kua kapi katoa rātou i ngā mea ora o te moana, ā, kāore i pakaru. I mua, ka taea e au te heke ki te takutai moana ki te kimi i te karāhe moana, engari ināianei ko te kirihou anake ka kitea e au – he kongakonga nunui, he kongakonga iti. He raruraru nui tēnei.
Me mōhio ahau ko wai te kaihanga nui rawa atu o ēnei hu, he whakapaipai hu ā mātou e hanga ana, neke atu i te 1000 ngā takirua hu e hokona ana e mātou ia marama, he iti noa iho ā mātou taonga inaianei.
He uaua ki te kī mēnā he pono ēnei kōrero, he tinihanga noa iho rānei i ngā karetao. Ki ahau nei, ko te oranga tonutanga i Crocs he rite ki tētahi rōpū pirionaire e haina ana i te Giving Pledge me te tuku i te haurua o ā rātou taonga. Kāore tētahi o rātou e whai wāhi nui ana ki tēnei, engari kua nui te rongonui mō ā rātou kōrero. I ripoatahia e Crocs Inc. te moni whiwhi ā-tau rekoata o te $3.6 piriona, he pikinga 54% mai i te tau 2021. Mēnā he tino hiahia rātou kia riro i ngā kamupene te kawenga mō te uara pono o ā rātou hu, kua wātea kē te moni mō te haumi oranga tonutanga. I te mea e awhi ana te whakatupuranga taitamariki i ēnei hu me te oranga tonutanga, ka taea e Crocs te noho hei pakiwaitara MBA mēnā ka aro rātou ki ngā huringa o ngā ia o ngā kaihoko. Engari he tino uaua te mahi i aua peke nui, nā te mea he tino rerekē te haumi ki ngā mahi oranga tonutanga utu nui ki ngā hokinga mai mō ngā kaipupuri hea/kaihaumi i te wā poto.
He kaupapa nā te Kaupapa Pūrongo Pūtaiao, Hauora, me te Taiao o te Arthur L. Carter Journalism Institute i Te Whare Wānanga o New York. Kaupapa a Garrett Gardner.